Nick & Carole Joyce
Meeting up with fellow tourists for a drink and group meal proved to be a marvellous remedy for the long hours of flying undertaken to reach Auckland, the venue chosen to host the first Test Match of our tour. This was to be New Zealand’s first day/night Test on home soil and also the first experience of pink ball cricket for many of our group.
Starting play after lunch each day afforded some time to explore Auckland in the mornings, then an afternoon and evening of cricket followed with a ‘download’ social in the hotel bar to finish off the day! We certainly had some serious downloading after day one with England having collapsed to 58 all out. Rain intervened on day two and three and we found ourselves battling things out till almost 8pm on the last day.
Auckland itself proved to be a wonderful host to us all, the guided walks and bus tours gave us access to the land-based points of interest with ease, including the impressive museum and the beautiful modern cathedral; whilst the harbour and coast offered trips to close by Islands. Waheke Island on a hot day will live in many a memory for life. To our knowledge nobody zip wired down the Sky Tower, but many braved the walkway on the top level and well done to Steve Castle on completing the Saturday morning ParkRun.
We flew on to Christchurch excited about seeing something of the South Island of New Zealand and equally excited about playing a Test Match at Hagley Park, a real country ground surrounded by grass banks. Our hotel was centrally situated on Cathedral Square which made exploring the city on foot very easy. It also provided us with one of the most beautiful walks imaginable to a sports ground, through the Botanical gardens alongside the river.
Christchurch endeared us, it is a city travelling the path of recovery after suffering a dramatic earthquake in 2011 yet it remains vibrant, resilient and full of interest. From the cathedrals (the now famous transitional cathedral built from cardboard, taking the place of the ruined stone building) to the old tram rides, to the gondola, to the choice of restaurants and bars. There was plenty to do and explore outside of playing hours, stories were shared in the bar and Steve, along with Jason Beecham, was cheered on having found another ParkRun to complete!
The night before the Test, an Old Howzat friend, Paul Farbrace, came to see our tour party for a Q&A. The audience, as ever, asked some very good questions and they went away with a greater understanding of how the England management work.
At the cricket ground we were treated to sunshine and the freedom to move around viewing from almost any angle. The atmosphere was ‘just as it used to be’ in the words of more than one tourist. The cricket didn’t disappoint either even though we couldn’t steal a win on the final day, in almost darkness.
During the test, on the fourth evening, we travelled out to Riccarton Park Racecourse for the end of tour dinner. The guest of honour, Sir Richard Hadlee, gripped the room for over an hour chatting with Jonathan Agnew about his own career, the state of International cricket and inevitably, the Australian ‘cheating’ scandal that had blown up during the first test in Auckland. It truly was an evening of insight and humour, plus a very tasty buffet!
All too soon our Test tour to one of the most beautiful and friendly countries in the world had come to an end. All in all, a good short series with one session in the first test making the result a little disappointing.
Some of our party flew home, some flew on to other countries and some of us started an additional week of adventure exploring the South Island.
Having been lucky enough, through our love of cricket, to visit many interesting countries we would be pushed to find anywhere else that offers as many plusses as New Zealand. Not just for the climate, the people or the food but for the awe-inspiring visuals.
Once through the Canterbury plains we drew closer to the Southern Alps and the spectacle of the glacial lakes. A photograph could not do justice to the purity of colour or the background of the perfect ‘long white cloud.’ We were heading of course for Mt Cook but as our journey progressed, down came the low ‘misty’ cloud, hence we decided to abort our intended late afternoon visit. The next morning however, we caught the mountain bathed in sunshine, standing proud with its snow covered peak, absolutely at its best. Even the driver said it was the best conditions of the year. Another never to be forgotten experience which truly felt like a cathedral of nature.
On to the famous Queenstown. The place for adventurers or equally, the less energetic. Bungee Jumping, white water rafting, power boat rides, the mountain gondola, steamers on the lake and former Gold mining towns to visit, you cannot fit it all in. Personally, we walked and walked. Round the lake, through the woods and gardens – and then lunched! New Zealand wines come very highly recommended and we managed to squeeze in a group winery visit on our one wet day. Many tales of speed boats rides and white water rafting were swapped but no-one put their hand up for a bungee jump – standing on the jumping bridge was daredevil enough!
After a splendid three days in the playground of Queenstown we headed for the scenic calm of the water, onward to Milford Sound. The weather was wet and whilst we knew the sights ahead of us were amazing in any weather, we were all praying for a miraculous change. At least the waterfalls, (yes – all 500 of them, many over 1000ft) – would be gushing. A miracle did happen although we did claim that Howzat had planned it! The waterfalls gushed and the weather cleared as we boarded our boat, to reveal a true wonder of the world. Vertically high mountains; waterfalls at their best (we sailed deep into the spray of one); a sea level glacier (one of only two in the world) and all this escorted by dolphins and as we neared the Tasman Sea, Royal Albatross. Words cannot do justice to this unforgettable day.
Onward to Dunedin, a town founded by the Scottish Immigrants, the station architecture and elaborate interior based on Edinburgh’s, the town has that distinct Scottish feel. Have you ever walked up the World’s steepest street? 12 of our tour party have. More great memories.
Finally, back along the Canterbury plains to Christchurch, a last look around the city, a nightcap drink in the bar enjoying the company of the tour – and then heading for flights home throughout the next day.
Our opinions remain the same, this is a country filled with so much to enjoy. Beyond the cricket and the scenic wonders, it was our fellow tourists that made this trip special. When England revisit – this is a tour NOT to be missed.
Gordon Bacon
On the evening of 17th February, the Bay of Island’s group had dinner together in The Grand Millennium, Auckland, the majority of whom had flown in after the very long flight from UK. Not many were burning the midnight oil as the following morning our driver Alan was there for a 9am start for the journey to Paihia – 140 miles due north. On the way, just before a coffee/lunch break, we went to the impressive Whangarei Falls, which was both a leg-stretch and a very good photo opportunity.
We then completed the remaining third of the journey to Paihia and went first to the Waitangi Treaty House. It was at that house on 6th February 1840, that an historic document was signed by both Maori and British settlers, which gave birth to the nation of New Zealand. We had a very interesting guided tour taking in the Treaty House, a traditional ‘whare runanga’ (meeting house) and a large war canoe. The war canoe should, according to tradition only to carry men, however there was one exception made when Princess Diana asked if she could have a ride in the magnificent canoe!
Our base for the 3-night stay in Paihia was the Kingsgate Hotel, situated a few minutes’ walk from the pier and the numerous restaurants & bars.
The following morning, we had a cruise in the Bay of Islands. The captain of the boat gave an excellent commentary and we saw a large number of dolphins, some of whom put on a fascinating display jumping & somersaulting around our boat. After seeing the dolphins, we went to the aptly named Hole in the Rock, which again had the photographers very happy. The sea was too rough to go through the hole, but it was a spectacular sight.
On the way back to Paihia after passing numerous islands, quite a number of the group alighted at the charming small town of Russell, and enjoyed the lovely old, Colonial style wooden buildings.
There was then a free day and, although the weather was poor early morning, it did improve. Quite a number went on long walks, some went by transport further north, towards to most northerly point of NZ, and others had a leisurely day in Paihia, getting rid of the last of the jet-lag.
The following morning, we set off on the return journey to Auckland and on arrival the group were dropped off at their respective hotels for the start of the Kiwi Tour.
For the two Test Matches I was looking after the Kiwi Platinum group and in Auckland we stayed at the Sofitel Viaduct Harbour. It was a small group which made it very easy to get to know everyone quickly, helped by the fact that 5 of us had been together on the Bay of Islands trip.
Eden Park, Auckland, the famous home of the NZ All Blacks rugby side, was the venue for the first Day-Night Test between New Zealand & England. The events of the first hour of the match are now recorded for posterity! None of the people watching, England fans, New Zealand fans of neutrals who decided to be there, could quite believe what was happening before their eyes. Put in to bat, at 23-8 England were looking as though they may become the unwanted record holders of the lowest ever score in test cricket 26 – current holders New Zealand! At 27-9 it seemed likely to become England’s lowest ever test score, which thankfully still stands at 45. However, despite the efforts of Overton, unbeaten on 33, the 58 all out was the sixth lowest in England’s test history.
Incoming texts from NZ friends were, quite understandably, having a real go! One that made me smile through gritted teeth referred to England’s 5 ducks being, “The Olympic Rings”! From that point, the result was almost inevitable. Despite virtually all day 3 being lost to rain & other rain delays, more poor English batting on the last day meant NZ would go to Christchurch leading the 2-match series.
Of course, the news of the Australian ball tampering in South Africa was a huge talking point. Because of being so often taunted by their Australian cousins, as ‘The guys from the little islands over the Tasman’ the NZ cricket fans, and New Zealanders in general had a field day – so did the Howzat travellers!
I think it’s fair to say that for the greater majority of tourists I spoke to, a 5-day Day-Night test match is not good for spectators, especially those on tour & staying in hotels. Breakfast becomes brunch and lunch/dinner were sourced from the stalls at the ground or bought beforehand. Unless folk left the ground early, it wasn’t possible to have a restaurant meal after the game ended. This is perhaps OK if attending a T-20 or ODI but for 5 days at a test match it becomes a bit tiring.
We had a free day in Auckland before flying to Christchurch, a city still very visibly recovering from the terrible earthquake of February 2011, which killed 185 people. Over 100,000 houses were damaged of which 10,000 had to be demolished, many of these had been weakened by an earthquake in September 2010, which at magnitude 7.1 was stronger than the 6.2 one in 2011. Driving or walking around the city from our base at the Crowne Plaza, just after the seventh anniversary of the tragedy, it was plain to see it will be many more years before the rebuilding is complete.
One part of Christchurch that looked magnificent was the Hagley Cricket Oval and a walk to the ground through Hagley Park in its autumn colours, must be one of the nicest walks to any ground in the world. Our seats were in the temporary stands which had been erected, the only permanent seating in the ground being within the pavilion. Most of those around the ground were either sitting in ‘Director’s Chairs’, low backed folding chairs or sitting on rugs on the grass. It certainly gave it a lovely ‘real cricket ground’ feeling, compared to what is after all, a rugby stadium, in Auckland.
Kane Williamson won the toss for the second time and again asked England to bat. England were again in trouble at 94-5 but thanks to an excellent 101 from Jonny Bairstow & a brisk 52 from Mark Wood coming in at 9, we were all out for 307. We had NZ in trouble at 17-4 then 36-5 but the middle & late order batted well to make 278. A much better all-round batting display allowed Joe Root to declare at 352-9. NZ needed an unlikely 381 to win and when they lost Raval and Williamson to Stuart Broad’s opening balls on Day 5 things looked good for the visitors. England picked up wickets at regular intervals, when Latham went for a 207 ball 83, making it 162-6 and Sodhi the new batsman, a series levelling win was on the cards, but de Grandhomme 45, Sodhi 56 not out & Wagner 7, who collectively faced 368 balls (61 overs & 2 balls!), saw NZ to a hard-fought draw, which of course gave them a 1-0 and deserved series win.
A very fitting finale to the tour was an excellent dinner where the special guest was Sir Richard Hadlee. After a very good meal Sir Richard and Jonathan Agnew royally entertained us with stories & anecdotes of the great New Zealand all-rounder’s life in cricket. Following numerous stories of years gone by, many of them humorous, Jonathan asked Sir Richard to tell us the story behind his book, “The Skipper’s Diary”. It turned out that the ‘Skipper’ in question was Sir Richard’s late father, Walter A Hadlee CBE, OBE who, Sir Richard said, had done more for NZ cricket than any other person past or present. Photographs & autographed book brought the night and the tour to a close.
It had been a great pleasure to visit New Zealand again, seeing its spectacular scenery, eating its lovely food and meeting such welcoming people. They may be at the end of the earth from where we live, but they certainly are ‘The salt of the earth’!
